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Choosing
Doggy DayCare
With so many people working long hours, there is a fear the Dog is becoming neglected. Sure, you can leave the pup in a crate for several hours. Yet, you know he or she deserves more than that, you want your pet to have fun while you are away. One of the answers to this problem is to send your dog or puppy to Doggy Day Care.
There are many such dog care centers available. How, then, do you choose the right one for your pet? You begin with a visit. Go, without your favorite pooch, to as many dog care facilities as you wish. Phone in advance and set up an appointment or drop in unannounced to see what they have to offer. Have ready a check list of desirable qualities. Make sure, you go through them as you make a tour of the operations.
Here, are several essential things you must consider before choosing a place for your companion to spend his or her mornings, afternoons or evenings. Be sure, the doggy day care complies with them.
Cleanliness is next to godliness or dogliness. The facility does not need to be spotless, but there need not be dog excrement all over the yard. Dog odor is going to be unavoidable. Nevertheless, the smell must not be overwhelming.
All dogs must look healthy. There should not be any sickly animals on the premises mixing with other animals.
Safety is essential. Are there spaces for dogs to play without fear of injury? Can a dog have quiet time? Does it look like there are bullies running the playground? Are all gates, both in and out, securely latched?
Supervision is part-and-parcel of safety issues. Are there people constantly monitoring the behavior of the pets? Do they interact with them in a friendly but assertive manner? What are the staffing levels? Do they have the right ratio of persons per dogs? The minimum should be 1 person for 10-12 dogs.
Space is another important criteria. How much space does the doggy care have for your pooch? Is there a leash-free area? If your pet is merely staying in a crate all day, why not leave him or her at home? If play space is cramped, how much exercise will your dog receive? Less space can also rev up the aggression levels in some breeds.
Fun is a part of life, or should be. Are the dogs having fun there? Do they dash about playing or sit there morose? Do the types of activities you see, look like the type your dog already likes or could enjoy?
Socialization is a necessary part of the well-rounded canine’s world. Do you see socialization taking place? Are the dogs enjoying themselves and learning the correct mores of doggy life?
What is the policy re: punishment? Do the workers have similar approaches to discipline?
These are the basics. You also need to see if the doggy care center has a procedure in place for handling situations. Is there a Vet on site or nearby? Is the staff trained to deal with behavioral problems? Can they see in advance, and therefore prevent, any acting out or aggression difficulties as they occur in the playground?
Before you even set pen to paper to commit your dog, you should hope the doggy day care has restrictions and an assessment process. If they do not ask you in for an initial assessment, go elsewhere. The assessment assures all animals in their facility have up-to-date vaccinations. They are free of heartworm, fleas and worms. There should also be a clause excusing all pets from attending if they are sick that day.
There are also other considerations. Price always enters into the equation. Doggy Care charges various prices, pick one compatible to your economic states without compromising your pet’s safety. Some facilities have flexible check-in and checkout times. It might also offer home pick-up and return. These are minor factors compared to the need to make sure your pup has a safe and happy time while you are away.
Content provided by Kenny Johnston of <a href="http://www.ohmydogsupplies.com/dog-supplies/dog-beds/">Oh My Dog Supplies</a>, check out our cool selection of <a href="http://www.ohmydogsupplies.com/dog-supplies/dog-clothes/">doggy footwear</a> online. |
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Top
Ten Ways to Love Your Pet
Brookelyn Nitzkin
Information Specialist
University of Illinois
College of Veterinary Medicine
Wallet, cell phone,
insurance cards, plastic toothpick, poop bag, leash, and tennis ball: the
contents of a dog owner's purse.
It seems that pets are playing an ever more important role in the lives of
people today, whether it be service dogs, farmhands, or simply family
companions. There are many ways that one can pay tribute to the furry
four-leggeds that invade our purses, our homes, and our hearts. Here are
ten ways that owners can help enrich the lives of their pets:
1) Exercise. Although it probably comes as no surprise, exercise is one of
the most important things that we can give to our pets. Exercise has the
same health and mental benefits for animals as it does for humans. It can
help reduce the risk of arthritis, joint disease, and diabetes while also
giving your pet an outlet for his excess energy.
2) Discipline by positive reinforcement. Dogs who are disciplined are
better behaved and are allowed greater freedoms than those who are
undisciplined. Well-behaving dogs are more easily brought out of the
house, left out of crates, and generally cause less stress to their
owners.
3) Regular visits to the veterinarian. Health is at the core of everything
we and our pets do. If we don't feel well, it is difficult to be our best.
Regular visits to the veterinarian will, at the very least, provide your
dog with their yearly vaccinations. These vaccinations help make it safe
for your pet to be around other pets as well as help prevent diseases that
could otherwise be very serious to you or your pet's health. Regular
physical exams can also help to catch any health problems before they are
out of control.
4) Good nutrition. Contrary to many humans' belief, pizza crusts and table
scraps don't offer pets adequate nutrition. There are many commercial pet
foods that offer options for well-balanced, moderate-cost, high-quality
diets for our pets. Your local veterinarian can provide some guidance in
this area.
5) Enrichment. Many animals suffer from pure boredom. And while this may
not seem like the biggest problem in the world it can manifest itself in
problematic behaviors such as chewing, house destruction, and
self-mutilation. Many animals lacking a mental challenge may seek out
their own challenges, like destroying the garbage. For example, the Kong
company manufactures toys that provide this type of mental challenge.
These products allow owners to hide treats inside a toy and the dog or cat
will spend hours trying to figure out how to get it out.
6) Grooming. Not only can regular grooming make for a more pleasant
smelling dog or cat, grooming can help to prevent health problems. Matting
of the hair can cause discomfort and provide a breeding ground for skin
infections. Not to mention that all that extra hair makes for a very hot
pet in the summer time. Regular grooming can also help owners detect
problems before they get out of hand, such as ticks or fleas. Regular ear
cleanings and clipping can help prevent ear infections.
7) Reassurance and positive reinforcement. It is easy to yell and scream
when your pet gets into mischief, but it's equally as easy to overlook
their positive behaviors. Like humans, our furry friends enjoy being
commended for doing the right thing, whether it's a moment of obedience or
simply just being a good pet.
8) Socialization. By allowing your pet to be exposed to many different
things you are creating a well-rounded pet that is able to relax and
behave in most situations. Practicing simple things at home, such as
touching his paws, opening his mouth, and touching his ears, will make
routine events, such as nail clipping or medicine administration, easier
on your pet and others around him. Regular exposure to other animals
allows your pet to learn how to not only have good manners around people,
but it teaches them to have good manners with other dogs as well. Human
beings greet each other in a certain way such as a hug or a hand shake.
Pets also greet each other in a specific way, and they are taught proper
pet manners from being exposed to other pets. This socialization will
allow you to bring your pet more places and allow him to enjoy himself in
parks and other public places.
9) Time. Time is a valued commodity these days, but often ten minutes of
brushing your pet can provide an excellent bonding routine. It helps take
care of some grooming needs, helps socialize your pet, and allows you to
spend one-on-one time with your animal. Another quick solution is a 5-10
minute game of catch with your dog or cat. Again, you are spending time
with your pet and taking care of their need for exercise as well.
10) Love. The most important thing that you can give your pet-and probably
already do-is love. However, it's important to remember that providing
love does not always mean providing treats. Oftentimes, when one feels as
if their pet is being neglected, it's easy to offer a treats to compensate
for that which is lacking. Like humans, the rate of obese animals is
increasing ever quickly, and an obese animal is neither good for the
animal or the owner.
In general, there is no one good way to make a happy pet. Some pets need
one thing more than another, but if you stick to some general guidelines
you can be sure that your pet will know how much you love them.
For more information about keeping your pet healthy and happy, consult
your veterinarian. |
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Your
Dog’s Grooming Needs
Grooming is an essential part to your dog’s care and one of the
areas you have to be particularly careful of is the ears.
There are many breeds of dogs that have ear problems throughout
life. These dogs can get ear
infections really easy and in some cases deafness is a problem.
In order to make sure your dog’s ears are kept safe from
problems, you have to take the proper precautions in dog care.
Your dog’s ear care can simply be rubbing the ears or more
complex with cleaning the ears out and making sure the hair around them is
brushed and trimmed.
A dog loves their ears to be massaged.
They will simply find happiness in the simple pleasure.
You know how you feel with a good backrub to ease the aches and
pains. Well a dog's ears are
sensitive and having the simple massage will make them the happiest dog
ever. However, you should not
stop with just massaging the ears. While
it does help promote health, it does not take care of the internal or
external issues.
You will
find the ears attract mites, fleas, and other infectious bugs.
This means that you have to clean around and in the ears.
A simple wet cloth can help you get rid of the build up in a
dog’s ear, just like you would for a human.
You should avoid things like Q-tips though.
A dog has sensitive ears so sticking anything that could harm the
ear inside is not a good idea. Instead,
a soft cloth with a little rubbing action can help you remove the dirt.
You do not want to press too hard though.
Around
the ears, all you need to do is make sure to trim the hair and brush it.
Brushing the hair with a flea comb or other brush can help you
remove the pests from the area. If
you keep that area groomed by trimming it down, you are also creating an
area less likely for the flea or other infection to stay hidden.
What you
should realize when you are trying to prevent issues with the ears is that
you have the preventative measures. The
dog is rather helpless in most instances to keep themselves clean.
You also have the ability to help keep circulation to the ears by
rubbing them. Your dog needs
your care in order to stay healthy whether it is the ears or the rest of
them.
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Hip
and Elbow Dysplasia in Your Dog
There are
certain dog breeds that are more prone to hip and elbow dysplasia.
This is a condition that results from improper growth during puppy
hood. Sometimes it can also be
a result of an adult or puppy’s injuries or poor health.
Hip and Elbow dysplasia result when the bones do not form
correctly. Often times in the
hip the bone does not fuse together properly leaving a space between the
hips. The condition whether it
is in the elbow or hips can be extremely painful for your dog.
The good news is there are ways to make your dog comfortable, even
with the condition.
First, if you have a puppy that is prone to hip or elbow dysplasia
you will need to take preventative measures.
As you know, it is often a result of the bone not fusing properly.
You can add calcium supplements to the puppy’s diet to promote
bone health. This calcium can
help the bones form, thus correcting the problem.
This is not a sure fire method, which means that excess calcium may
not promote the proper growth you are hoping for.
In this case you just need to ease the issues.
Calcium will still help to promote healthy bones and make them feel
a little better, but you can also add other nutrients.
A proper diet is always essential for your dog.
It is even more important when there are health issues to be taken
care of. The more nutrients
your dog gets the better health.
Exercise is also a concern, especially for those who already display
hip or elbow dysplasia. You
will want to provide exercise, but you will need to limit the amount of
exercise they receive. You do
not want to over exert them by running or jogging too much.
The dog will tell you what they are up for and when they are tired.
You should shorten your walks and only allow them to run for short
bursts on a leash.
You will also want to change the dog bed you supply for your dog.
The softer materials you can buy and the more padding you can give
them to lay on will help ease the pain.
If they are not lying directly on the floor the hip and elbow
dysplasia will not seem as uncomfortable.
An orthopedic dog bed is usually made from memory foam or other
filling that’s specially made for joint support.
As a last resort that you will have to help the hip or elbow
dysplasia, you will find surgery. Surgery
can help correct the issue. Sometimes
there are obstructions on the hips or elbow such as calcium deposits that
have built up or other deposits. You
can have these scraped away to help the dogs mobility.
You can also have surgery to try and fuse the area.
If you have any questions about calcium supplements or other help
you can provide your dog ask your veterinarian.
They should be able to help you determine what is proper for your
dog’s health.
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Tips
On Giving Your Dog Medicine
Giving
your dog medicine is not always an easy task.
There are a couple different ways you can try to make this task
easier. Not all dogs will
respond in the same way, so try and figure out the way that works best for
you and your dog.
One way
to give your dog liquid medicine is to make a pouch for the medicine.
To do this pull a corner of the lower lip out to form a pouch.
Use one hand to make the pouch, and the other hand to pour the
medicine into the pouch. Make
sure the head is slightly tilted back so that the medicine stays in the
mouth and is swallowed.
Getting
the dog to swallow the medicine may be another battle.
If your dog does not swallow right away there are a few tricks that
can be done. First trick to
try is to pry the dogs mouth open so that the liquid can flow down the
throat. Dogs sometimes clench
their teeth preventing the medicine from being swallowed, and this will
prevent that. This trick may
cause the dog to back away from you, so start him in the corner, or place
him between your legs with him facing away from you.
If the dog is still getting away more assistance may be needed.
If this
method does not work try massaging the throat.
After the medicine is in the mouth the massaging motion will make
the dog swallow. When doing
this make sure to hold the mouth partially shut, but not all the way.
The dog will stick his tongue out when he swallows, so this is a
sign to watch for.
If this
method does not work try putting your finger or thumb over his nostrils
for a brief moment. The dog
will have to swallow in order to breathe.
The other
method of giving your dog liquid medicine is to pry their mouth open, and
tilt the head back. To pry the
mouth open grasp the upper jaw with one hand, right behind the fangs.
Once the mouth is open, get the liquid in the mouth, and it should
go right down, especially if the head is tilted.
If the dog does not swallow right away try one of the previously
mentioned tricks.
If you
use the pouch approach, and are still having to pry the dogs mouth open to
get him to swallow, think about just starting with the prying method.
This will save time, and frustration.
Administering
pills to a dog is a little different than liquid.
With a pill the mouth has to be pried open again, by grabbing the
top jaw. Once the mouth is
open stick the pill in as far as you can get it.
The further back you get it, the better the chance it will get
swallowed the first time. Use
the same tricks as above to get the dog to swallow the pill.
This may
feel awkward at first, but should get easier.
If your dog is spitting the pills out another method may be needed.
Another trick you can use with a pill is to stick it in people
food, and then feeding it to your dog.
The dog will think he is getting a treat, which he is, but he is
also taking the medicine at the same time.
Article
by Kelly Perry of Oh
My Dog Supplies |
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How
Much Exercise Is Needed for Your Dog
Age
and Size
A dog’s age can
be a huge factor. The older a
dog becomes the more they tend to have health problems, especially those
genetically predisposed. This
means that often times they may have been active in youth, but the
exercise needs to be cut down in their adult age when they have issues.
In some cases you will find that exercise does not change that much
when the dog ages. Again, it
will really depend on the breed of dog you have and any health issues they
may have.
Size also
matters. There are dogs that
need a little exercise each day like the Japanese Chin, but they soon tire
with excessive playing. In
other words, their small stature makes for more frequent energy bursts,
but they will not play or want long walks.
Some of the larger breeds of dogs tend to tire easily as well.
This means that you want to give them the appropriate amount of
exercise with shorter walks. You
will need to research your dog’s breed before answering the question on
exercise, as each will be different. Keep
in mind that all dogs do need exercise it is just the amount that will
differ.
Article by Kelly Perry of Oh
My Dog Supplies |
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If you are ever driven from your home during an emergency -- be it a
flood, a fire, or gale force winds -- be prepared with a Fido-friendly
plan.
Don't rely on shelters to accept your furry companion -- most only allow
service dogs. Have another option at the ready. Ask friends and family
members ahead of time if their homes would be available to you, and
research pet-friendly hotels in outlying areas. (And of course,
don't forget Camp Ilene. In a pinch, I will always try my hardest to
make sure your "fur kid" has a place to call "home".)
Store a list of potential hosts with your emergency supplies. And to
ensure your pooch is prepared for uncertain times, get him micro-chipped
and invest in extra training. Obedient dogs are better at handling stress
and following commands when under duress. |
| Emergencies can be a scary thing, especially when your pet
in involved. Being aware of the dangers is a good starting point but maybe
you should also check out dog insurance
and cat
insurance. Don't be caught off-guard when your favorite
pet needs urgent care... be prepared and learn more about buying pet
insurance. Remember, a healthy pet is a happy pet! |
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First
Aid - Top 10 Things to Know
...That
May Save Your Pets Life
There are three keys to
managing any emergency: don't panic, protect yourself from injury, and prepare
in advance.
When faced with an injured or severely ill pet, it is important that you spend a
moment to assess the situation. Determine if the pet needs to be moved
immediately. Decide if there is a danger of further injury to the pet or to
first aid givers. For example, great care must be used before assisting a pet
injured on a busy roadway. It may be safest to call for help so that traffic can
be diverted before anyone provides first aid. You must insure that you won't be
injured yourself – either by the surroundings or by the injured animal.
Prepare in advance by knowing the location and numbers of emergency animal care
facilities. These guidelines should help.
1. Behavior Knowledge. Understanding how to approach an injured pet
safely is critical. Animals may respond to fear and pain instinctively, even if
they know you well. You cannot assume that your own pet won't bite you,
because pain or fear may provoke even a docile animal to aggression. Preventing
a bite to yourself or other assistants must be your first goal.
How to Approach an Injured Pet Safely
If you encounter a dog in need or injured in some
way, your first reaction may be to run to help. That’s a common reaction –
most people don’t want to see an animal in pain. But without taking the proper
precautions, you could get injured. And being injured along with the animal
won’t help the situation.
It is important to remember that even the sweetest dog may bite if she is
frightened or in pain. Here are some guidelines for approaching an injured pet.
Assess the Situation
Use common sense: Remember that your safety comes first.
 | If the animal is in the middle of the
road, watch for traffic before going to assist. |
 | If there is a house fire, do not enter
the house until the fire department has eliminated the danger – very
likely firefighters will rescue the pet. |
 | If your pet has fallen, make sure no
more items are ready to fall on you. |
 | If your pet is covered in a toxic
substance, do not touch the animal unless you are wearing protective gloves
or can cover him with plastic (or some other protective material). |
 | If your pet is covered in blood, do not
touch the animal without protective gloves. Even though there are few
diseases you can get from animal blood, there is no guarantee that human
blood is not mixed in from someone else. That person’s blood may have
spilled onto the animal, and with the threat of HIV, hepatitis or other
illnesses, exposure to any blood is not recommended. |
Determine if the Dog is Aggressive
If the animal shows signs of fear or aggression, muzzling him is essential
before helping. As you approach the animal, pay attention to his body language
and any sounds he is making. Use a soft, gentle, calming voice. Avoid direct eye
contact with an injured pet since some will perceive this as a confrontation or
threat. A wagging tail is irrelevant. Some dogs with wag their tails throughout
an attack.
Here are some body language signals to look out for:
How
to Make and Place a Muzzle
Injured animals are usually in pain, and an animal
in pain may lash out. One of the most important thing you need to do before
helping an injured animal is to place a muzzle on the mouth. Even your own sweet
dog may bite if frightened or in severe pain. There are several methods to
muzzle an animal but never muzzle one that is vomiting, has difficulty breathing
or is coughing.
Muzzles can be purchased from pet stores or veterinary clinics. These muzzles
come in a variety of sizes. Having a muzzle to fit your own pet should be
included in your pet's first-aid kit.
If you do not have a manufactured muzzle, you can make a temporary muzzle out of
tape, nylon stocking, neckties, thick string, belts or strips of fabric.
2. Veterinary Telephone
Number and Address. Keep the name and phone number of
your family veterinarian and local veterinary emergency facility handy. This
simple guideline can help save the life of your pet. Most veterinarians are open
during normal business hours – 8 am to 5 pm. Determine how your veterinarian
handles emergency calls. Some have emergency pagers, and in larger metropolitan
cities, many contribute to or use an emergency facility for after-hour emergency
calls. Calling first can often answer simple questions or prevent a trip in the
wrong direction. Even in situations that are not apparently life-threatening,
your questions or concerns may be best considered by a professional who can
advise you whether or not to come in.
3. Name and Telephone Number of a Friend. If possible, have a friend
assist you, especially if your pet needs to be hospitalized. In the car, it is
best to have one person keep the pet calm or settled while the other drives to
the emergency clinic or veterinary hospital.
4. CPR. Be familiar with animal cardiopulmonary resuscitation. There are
classes offered in pet CPR and this knowledge can be important when faced with a
life-threatening situation. (I recently took a pet CPR class with
Sunny-dog Ink. For more information go to www.sunnydogink.com.
5. Heimlich Maneuver. Though not a commonly used or needed skill, knowing
how to perform the Heimlich maneuver for your dog can be a life-saving skill.
Only perform the Heimlich if you are absolutely certain your pet is choking on a
solid object (such as a toy), and you have been properly trained in the
technique. Improperly used, the Heimlich can cause injury to your pet.
Many people confuse difficulty breathing with
choking. If you witness your pet ingesting an item and then immediately begin
pawing at the face, the throat, acting frantic, trying to cough and having
difficulty breathing, only then should the Heimlich maneuver be considered. If
your pet is not really choking, the Heimlich can cause serious injury.
After determining that your pet is choking, remove any item that may be
constricting the neck. Examine inside the mouth and remove any foreign object
you see. Do not blindly place your hand down your pet’s throat and pull any
object you feel. Dogs have small bones that support the base of their tongues.
Owners probing the throat for a foreign object have mistaken these for chicken
bones. Do not attempt to remove an object unless you can see and identify it.
If your pet is small and you cannot easily remove the object, lift and suspend
him with the head pointed down. For larger animals, lift the rear legs so the
head is tilted down. This can help dislodge an item stuck in the throat.
Another method is to administer a sharp blow with the palm of your hand between
the shoulder blades. This can sometimes dislodge an object. If this does not
work, a modified Heimlich maneuver can be attempted.
 | Grasp the animal around the waist so
that the rear is nearest to you, similar to a bear hug. |
 | Place a fist just behind the ribs. |
 | Compress the abdomen several times
(usually 3-5 times) with quick pushes. |
 | Check the mouth to see if the foreign
object has been removed. |
 | This maneuver can be repeated one to
two times but if not successful on the first attempt, make arrangements to
immediately take your pet to the nearest veterinary hospital. |
Even if you are successful in removing a foreign
object, veterinary examination is recommended. Internal injury could have
occurred that you may not realize.
6. Bandaging.
A bandage helps to cover or apply pressure to a wound to protect or control
hemorrhage. Bandages can be fabricated from towels, washcloths, paper towels, or
just about any piece of fabric.
You and your pet are far from help (perhaps camping
or hiking), and your pet hurts himself. Would you know how to stabilize him
until you could reach a veterinarian? This article provides some guidance in
case of such an emergency, but it does not replace the skill and expertise of
your veterinarian. If possible, it is better to let a trained expert treat your
pet than yourself.
Head
The most common reason a head wrap is applied is to stop bleeding from the ears.
 | Use long strips of gauze or torn
sections of sheet. |
 | Wrap completely around the head,
pinning the ears to the side of the head. |
 | Be very careful not to wrap too tightly
- you could cut off the airway. |
 | Do not cover the animal’s eyes with
the head bandage. This can increase fear and anxiety in the pet. |
 | Once the bandage is in place, apply
tape to the front edges of the bandage. Make sure that the hair is included
in the tape. This will help keep the bandage in place and reduce the risk of
slipping. |
Once the bandage is in place,
test the tightness: Try to place two fingers under the bandage. If you can do
this, the bandage is not too tight.
After the bandage is applied, frequently check the animal for facial swelling or
difficulty breathing. If either is detected, remove the bandage immediately.
Leg Bandage
Leg bandages are typically applied to help temporarily stabilize a fracture or
to help reduce bleeding from a wound.
After the bandage is applied, frequently check
the toes for swelling or coldness. If either is detected, remove the bandage.
Splint
Splints are used to add extra support to fractures of the bones below the elbow.
Be very careful if you apply a splint to the rear leg. Due to the natural
position of the rear legs, bandaging these bones in a straight alignment can be
detrimental. Splints are best used only in the front legs.
 | Follow the instruction for leg bandage. |
 | After the cotton and stretch gauze have
been applied, place a flat stick or straight piece of metal on either side
of the leg and tape in place. |
 | If no sticks or metal are available,
rolled up newspaper or a magazine can be used. Place it next to the injured
leg and tape in place. |
 | Cover the bandage and splint with
elastic bandage such as VetRap® or Ace® bandage. |
 | Secure the top of the bandage to the
animal by applying one layer of sticky tape. Make sure the dog’s hair and
the bandage are included in the tape. This will prevent the bandage from
sliding off. |
Bandages and splints do not help fractures of the
humerus (upper arm bone) or femur (thigh bone). They can even cause more damage.
If you suspect that your pet has a fractured upper thigh bone or upper arm bone,
do not use a bandage or splint. Try to keep your pet as quiet and confined as
possible and contact your veterinarian.
7. Stopping Bleeding.
If there is an obvious source of bleeding, apply pressure to control the
hemorrhage. Pressure is best applied with a clean cloth or towel applied
directly to the wound.
8. Towels or Blankets. Blankets and towels can aid in picking up an
injured pet or to control bleeding. You can use a towel to wrap a frightened pet
or cover a wound. Frightened pets are often relieved by the dark calm enclosure
of a blanket.
9. Board, Stretcher or Strong Blanket. Strong sturdy instruments are
important to help move or transport severely injured pets that are unable to
walk. A small board, a sturdy wool blanket, a piece of canvas or a hammock can
be used. Gently roll or move the pet onto the device. Typically, two people are
needed to pick up and move the pet when using a stretcher. Be careful as
this procedure may cause pain to an injured pet, and exposes the helpers to the
risk of bite injury.
10. Finances. Probably the last thing people think about during an
emergency is how to pay the bill. Emergency clinics and veterinary practices are
no different than other small businesses, and they need to pay their own bills
to survive. Expect to leave a deposit when admitting a pet and be prepared to
pay for services rendered. Veterinary insurance can be most beneficial in these
situations; however, often the veterinary clinic will require that you pay the
bill and the insurance company will reimburse you after the invoice is
submitted. Most veterinary clinics do accept major credit cards, and there are
some veterinary clinics that offer other financial alternatives through banks.
Separation Anxiety
& Your Dog
Separation anxiety is a panic-type reaction that
your dog feels when you leave your dog alone. Separation anxiety can lead to any
number of unwanted behaviors, from making messes in the house to tearing the
place apart.
Some dog owners mistakenly believe that when you leave a dog alone and it
destroys objects around the house that the dog is "getting even" with
you for leaving it alone.
NOTHING COULD BE FURTHER FROM THE TRUTH.
You and your dog do NOT live in a Disney cartoon where animals think and feel
the same way humans do. Your dog is NOT thinking of ways to get back at you for
leaving it alone. In fact, your dog is not THINKING at all, and the sooner you
realize this important distinction, the sooner you and your dog will be able to
deal with the very real psychological problems associated with Separation
Anxiety.
Ultimately the problems associated with Separation Anxiety come down to an
unusually strong attachment that your dog has with you. All of the problems
associated with Separation Anxiety - inappropriate defecation or wetting,
prolonged periods of barking or whining, hyperactivity, depression and/or
destructive behavior - can be caused by other problems, but if these problems
are always associated with the animal being left alone, and if the dog exhibits
a prolonged greeting ritual whenever the owner returns, then chances are the
problems stem from the dog's abnormal dependency on you.
This dependency can have many causes. Some dogs seem to simply have a
predisposition to dependency. Other dogs have suffered a separation anxiety
earlier in life - a too-early separation from the mother, not being around other
dogs as a puppy, a sudden change in environment or many other similar life
upheavals - that has now resulted in extreme anxiety and fear anytime the dog's
owner leaves the animal alone.
UNDERSTAND THAT ANY INAPPROPRIATE BEHAVIOR IS NOT YOUR DOG'S FAULT AND
PUNISHMENT WILL NOT SOLVE THE PROBLEM AND MAY EVEN MAKE THE PROBLEM WORSE.
THE PROBLEM IS A PSYCHOLOGICAL PROBLEM AND MUST BE DEALT WITH APPROPRIATELY.
One of the most common treatments for Separation Anxiety begins with a series of
short separations. Start by leaving your dog alone for one to three minutes -
then return. However, do NOT make a big deal of your return. Your return needs
to be kept low-key as if it is to be routinely expected. If your dog exhibits a
prolonged greeting response, ignore the response and simply greet your dog in a
friendly but not overly-friendly manner.
Once your dog can handle short separations, increase the duration of your
separations by five or ten minutes and then return. Again, be friendly on your
return but do NOT encourage an overly long greeting; attempt to make the
greeting seem natural and normal as if no separation had occurred.
Continue extending the length of time that you are separated from your dog by
five or ten minute intervals. Do not attempt to overly-stress your animal. Keep
each separation just under your dog's separation threshold.
Once your dog can handle a separation of an hour and a half then your dog can
probably handle an all-day separation.
Do NOT go overboard with attention just before leaving for an extended period.
Many people feel guilty about leaving their dog and feel that additional
attention will make the dog feel better. Again, this is NOT the case and, in
fact, the opposite is true. Being too demonstrative just before leaving your
animal will increase its anxiety and can undo days of separation anxiety
training.
The bottom line is to be understanding. Separation Anxiety is a mental condition
on the part of your dog and NOT a conscious attempt to get back at you. With a
little kindness, and a little patience, and a gradual weaning away process, it
is very probable that your dog can be made to feel comfortable that each time
you leave you will return - and once your dog understands that, its unwanted
separation anxiety behavior should disappear.
About The Author: Larry Parr's Love Your
Dog website has Free articles on Dog Training plus Tips and Tricks for keeping
your dog Health and Happy. He even has a Free recipe for home made dog food!
Visit his site at: http://www.keeping-families-together.com/dogs.
How to Make Your Dog Younger
Keeping your best friend's age as
young as can be, helps ensure that the two of you will have more time to spend
together. To help make your dog younger, your dog should follow these 7
steps:
1. Maintain a lean
physique, with a clearly defined and tucked-up waist. Controlling
your dog's caloric intake and increasing exercise helps to prevent obesity and
other health issues.
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2. Eat only the amount
of dog food necessary to maintain an ideal body condition. Measure servings with
a standardized measuring cup, and monitor body condition regularly. Recent
studies indicate that managing your dog's weight can lead to a longer,
healthier life. Dogs typically will eat 25% more than they need, which
can lead to obesity and illness.
Using the amount stated on the back of the dog food package is a
good guide for measuring the right amount of dog food. Use a scoop or
measuring cup instead of filling the dog bowl to the top. This will
help control the quantity and keep your dog slim. If your dog still
seems hungry, talk to your veterinarian about the proper amount for your
dog. If your dog becomes disinterested in the food before it is gone,
take it away, and provide less food next time. Prevent your
dog from overeating by putting the dog food bowl out only at mealtimes
and removing it as soon as your dog stops eating.
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3. Be trained to respond to
commands the majority of the time. Well-behaved
dogs are safer dogs and happier dogs...and so are their owners. Most
undesirable behaviors can be changed with a training program. A well-trained and
disciplined dog, one who is able to perform various tasks as well as provide
personal and home protection, is an asset to his or her owner.
4. Enjoy teeth-cleaning chews or
biscuits and
brush teeth 3 times per week. Next
time you want to reward your pup with a snack, choose a treat that's
teeth-friendly. Your dog will enjoy the biscuit, and you'll appreciate his or
her smile. Dogs are just like humans—they
enjoy treats—and like humans, if your dog eats too many he or she may become
overweight. Treats can potentially unbalance a balanced diet so be careful.
Treats should not exceed 10% of the total dietary intake.
 | Edible chew bones. Dogs enjoy chewing
on these bones. Because they have calories and are digested, do not feed too
many. They may contribute to excess caloric intake. |
 | Rawhide. Chips, strips, and bones can
be good, digestible treats for your dog. |
 | Teeth cleaning biscuits or bones. These
treats are specifically designed to help in the maintenance of your dog's
teeth and are a good treat. |
 | Nylon chew bones. Nylon chew bones are
made of safe nylon that may or may not be flavored. They are generally safe
for most dogs because they slowly grind away, rather than break off in
chunks. |
 | Pig ears. Pig ears contain calories and
are digested. They should not be considered a chew toy. Use them as an
occasional treat instead. After handling, wash hands with soap and water. |
 | Cooked beef or pork bones. Cooked beef
or pork bones are usually safe for dogs. Do not give your dog small bones
such as poultry bones, which can splinter and puncture the stomach and
intestines, and may pose a choking hazard to your pooch. |
 | Dog ice cream. Some dogs enjoy doggie
freeze-dried ice cream. Do not feed your dog people ice cream, because it's
higher in calories and fat. |
5. Exercise or play actively
at least 3 times per day for
a minimum of 15 minutes each time. Keep
playtime interesting by diversifying your dog's activities. Changing
daily activities is recommended to keep your dog interested in exercise and to
prevent boredom. Need ideas? Use the following list of exercise activities to
maintain dog health:
 | Playing at the park is great exercise
for your dog and you! Also, time spent exercising together will strengthen
the bond between you and your pooch. |
 | Playing catch with your pooch provides
great exercise for him. Remember to give him or her praise for his or her
accomplishments. |
 | Keeping your dog entertained with toys
might help cut down on house or lawn damage. Busy dogs are less likely to
cause household problems than bored dogs. |
 | Dogs love to interact with other dogs
and need to have their own time for doggie play. Bring
them to Camp Ilene! |
 | Swimming is a great activity that will
increase your dog's cardiovascular fitness, muscle tone, and strength. Dogs
that suffer joint diseases or have injuries also will benefit from this type
of low-impact workout. |
 | Daily walks with your dog will get you
both moving and offer more time for owner-pet bonding. |
6. Get vaccinated and
visit the veterinarian for regular checkups. Many
veterinarians agree that pets should be vaccinated to help prevent illness and
diseases; ask your dog's vet which vaccines are necessary. Veterinarians
believe vaccinations save the lives of millions of dogs. There are two types of
vaccination programs: core and non-core.
Core vaccinations protect against diseases that are serious and sometimes
fatal:
 | Distemper virus spreads from dog to dog
by respiratory secretions. The virus is usually fatal, especially in
puppies. It's the leading cause of death among unvaccinated puppies 3-8
months of age. The first vaccination should begin at 6-8 weeks of age. |
 | Adenovirus causes liver and kidney
damage and severe respiratory infections. Adenovirus vaccination is usually
included with the distemper virus vaccination. Annual booster shots
are recommended. |
 | Parvovirus is a viral disease that
affects puppies more often than adult dogs. The virus causes diarrhea and in
severe cases, it can infect the heart, causing death. This vaccine should be
given early (6-8 weeks old). Annual booster shots are recommended. |
 | Rabies attacks the brain and is usually
passed through a bite and can affect animals and people. Once the signs of
rabies are visible, it is almost always fatal. Vaccinate at 6 months of
age (check for your state's requirements), repeat in one year, and in
most cases revaccinate every three years. In most areas in the U.S., rabies
shots are required for public safety. |
All vaccination programs are not the same.
Ask your dog's vet for a schedule specific to your dog's health care needs. This
will also remind you when it's time to vaccinate. Also, be sure to ask him or
her if it's necessary to revaccinate beyond puppyhood.
Non-core
vaccinations are for dogs that might be at a specific risk for infection due to
their lifestyle habits or surrounding environments.
 | Bordetellosis is caused by the bacterium Bordetella
bronchiseptica and can lead to a severe, chronic cough known as kennel
cough. It is usually passed along from dog to dog in kennels and at dog shows. |
 | Lyme disease is
transmitted to dogs by deer ticks. It may cause flu-like symptoms and stiff
joints. At-risk dogs should be vaccinated beginning at 9-12 weeks of age,
repeated in 3 weeks, and then annually.
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| Is Your
Dog at Risk for Lyme Disease? |
| A
type of bacteria called Borrelia burgdorferi, which is carried by
the deer tick, causes Lyme disease. Lyme disease may cause serious dog
health problems, such as lameness, enlarged lymph nodes, and an elevated
temperature (103 degrees Fahrenheit). The joint pain can become quite
extreme. In severe cases, the bacteria can damage the kidneys and immune
system. Antibiotics should be administered to eliminate this disease. |
| Dogs
at high risk for Lyme disease include those living in the
northeastern part of the U.S., near the Great Lakes, or in northern
California. Areas along the west coast and southern states east of Texas
are moderate risk areas. |
| If
you live in an area that has a high-risk level for contracting Lyme
disease, you should vaccinate your dog as soon as possible. A typical
schedule for high-risk dogs is a shot at 9-12 weeks of age, repeated in
3 weeks, and then annually for preventive dog health care. |
 |
Leptospirosis
develops from a type of bacteria, Leptospira, that infects the kidneys
and liver, which causes severe damage. This disease can be spread to humans.
This vaccination is usually included with the distemper combination. |
 | Coronavirus attacks the small intestines
causing lethargy, anorexia, and depression. It is usually passed from dog to dog
contact in kennels and dog parks. This vaccination is usually included with the
distemper combination. |
Neuter/spay
your dog.
Studies indicate that spaying
f
7. Be safe in the yard,
on walks, and on trips by using protective barriers and gear such as fences,
leashes, and dog carriers. The
less trouble your dog finds, the younger and healthier he or she will be.
When transporting dogs in vehicles, walking them
in parks, or keeping them outside on your property, dogs can encounter people,
other animals, or dangerous materials. Taking a few precautions can reduce your
dog's risk of finding trouble.
 | Transportation. Crates and/or carriers
are the safest way to transport your dog in all types of vehicles. If a
carrier is not available, try one of the following restraints: a harness
with a seat belt; screens (to fence off an area in a car or truck); or a
regular leash attached to the armrest.
Caution: pickup leashes can lead to a dog's death by
strangulation. |
 | Walking. The safest way to walk your
dog in public is on a leash. Leashes come in many different styles and
lengths. Short leashes are recommended for busy and congested streets so you
can keep him or her close to your side. Longer leashes can be used at parks
or beaches. |
 | Fences. Securing your property is the
safest way to control your dog's environment. Fences will keep him or her on
your property and keep other dogs or strangers out. Fences vary by type,
from the standard wooden fence to invisible electronic devices. |
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